A bright (though cold) day lured me out of the house to follow Peter Smithson’s Walk One from his book Bath: Walks Within the Walls.
Dr A and I had chosen to start with Walk Two, as Walk One runs along a route that we often follow into and out of town. We thought that Walk One might be of less interest, as it features familiar paths. But seen through Smithson’s eyes, the city takes on new dimensions.
Photos by Dr H. Quotes by Peter Smithson are written in orange.
The walk starts in South Parade.
This is my favourite part of Bath. Decent snuff-coloured buildings and the widest pavement I know.
The walk moves into the car-free Duke Street.
Notice here for the first time in the Walks, the street name cut into the string-course and the effect it has of making the string-course look as if it was provided for that purpose.
Smithson admires the pediment and Tuscan Columns above the entrance to Pierrepont Place.
He then moves on to Abbey Green.
Here under this tree with the world shut out, traffic very slow, stone paved road, stone kerbs still intact, stone pavement… a real inhabited cavity in the ‘live-shell’.
Smithson then takes a sentence to pass the tourist hotspots of Bath – the Baths and Pump Rooms, the Abbey, Pulteney Bridge – all paid no heed.
What interests Smithson is Laura Place. He describes this as one of Bath’s geometric oddities – of greatest interest in the resolution of corners.
He declares the experiment a failure. Great Pulteney Street, leading out of Laura Place, is a favourite with directors and film crews of period dramas. But it does not gain favour with Smithson.
Looking up Great Pulteney Street one feels a kind of desolation; one is in the grip of the continental drift towards abstract space… Street has become route.
Smithson finds some details to admire, and notes the fanciness of the architecture. But his praise is reserved for Sydney Place.
This is architecture.
The last section of the walk leads through Sydney Gardens, over the railway and back along the canal.
When Smithson was writing the Walks, the canal was in a terrible state; neglected and unused.
Now, the canal has been restored and is busy with boats, walkers and cyclists.
Along the way, Smithson notes Cleveland House, once the Kennet and Avon canal headquarters (apparently one of the first purpose-built office buildings in Europe).
From here, the Walk follows the canal back to the station, past the backs of ordinary houses, by…locks, allotments, gardens and fields.